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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.